For me the WoodRat would pay for itself used solely for tenoning
— Paul Richardson, The Router
Without doubt, the best tenons I have ever cut have been with the aid of a WoodRat.
— Ron Fox, The Router

Tenoning

Just lock the workpiece in the Cam Lock, depth the bit and cut, to get perfect, square tenons in just four hits. You can make any kind, haunched, twin, double twin and so on. You can even cut compound angled tenons for chair making.

The maximum cut depth is 2” (50mm) which is ample for most projects. However, if you need a longer tenon, you can start it on the WoodRat, so that you know it’s accurate, and extend it in depth, using a band saw or finish the cut by hand.

Lightening fast

Our Stop & Block technique uses a router stop that attaches to the Guide Rails. Combined with a simple spacer block, this allows you to make perfect tenons (and sliding dovetail tenons) in seconds.

No Tearout

The router table is hopeless at cutting tenons or in fact, any joint across the end of a rail, as you have to go against the spin of the bit to avoid the workpiece being snatched out of your hands. Unfortunately, this method (up-cutting) produces bad tearout.

The WoodRat cuts perfectly across the ends of boards thanks to the built-in manual powerfeed. The Cam Lock holds the wood firmly as it feeds it steadily into the bit on the down-cut. This gives a clean cut at the shoulder. Your tenons will come straight off the bit as clean as a whistle.

No tearout means that you can depth the joint so that you have very little cleaning up to do, which means thinner wood and lighter, stronger furniture. Down-cutting prolongs the life of the bit too.

Making Tenons of all kinds

Make through, stub, haunched, twin, double, angled and compound angled tenons for chair-making. Make also bridle joints and mitred bridle joints.

Tenons can be long (eg. for sliding dovetails), short, deep, shallow, twin or double, angled or compound angled. Then of course they can be through, stub, fox-tailed, pinned, pinned with draw-pins and so on.